Our visitors’ visas allowed us to stay in Morocco for no more than 90 days and it was time for us to return to Europe. We booked a ferry from Tanger Med to Genoa leaving at the end of January. As on previous visits we had mixed feelings about leaving Africa. We yearned for Europe and its well ordered ways but retained a deep affection for Morocco and its people.
Since we were last in Morocco in 2022 major road improvements meant driving around the country was a lot easier – except for the actual road working sites.
Litter was a massive issue. There was rubbish everywhere although in the cities we did see evidence of workers litter-picking. In rural communities rubbish continued to be dumped on nearby wasteland. Occasionally piles of the waste would be burned creating an acrid pall of smoke. Dry river beds were choked with plastic and rubbish was tipped over cliffs above the sea, spoiling the beaches below. We were told by some surfers that they had become very poorly after being in the water close to one of those dump sites. We also saw evidence of fly tipping on some deserted mountain roads.
Rabies was endemic in Morocco with twenty or so human cases each year mainly passed on by dogs. In places where there were very few dogs to be seen, we were told, the authorities would have rounded them up and shot them. There were groups of dogs roaming the streets and along the main highways. In Kénitra we saw a bitch suckling her puppies in the middle of the promenade. Most nights we went to sleep to the sound of dogs barking.
It was the Moroccan people that charmed us. They would help in any way they could and did everything in their power to make our travels pleasant, safe and comfortable. I suppose we Europeans were pretty conspicuous and the camp site guardians, through their network of brothers / cousins, usually knew our whereabouts when we were out and about exploring. We felt totally safe wherever we went and we never had anything stolen. If we happened to leave something behind in a restaurant, someone would always come running after us.
And, of course, our fellow travellers, bless ‘em. We met too many to recall them all individually but, whether it was just a wave hello, a ten minute chat or a few days spent in close proximity, they were a great source of social interaction. We loved to hear people’s stories and enjoyed an amazing variety of potted life histories from travellers of various nationalities. We met several families travelling with young children as well as a surprising number of women travelling alone. Of course, we didn’t get on with everybody – we came across plenty of rude, ignorant and inconsiderate people.
The sheer volume of visitors from France far outnumbered all the other countries. The French were sometimes criticised by non-Gallic motor-home owners for appearing reluctant to talk to anyone who didn’t speak French. This was particularly noticeable if they were part of a large group travelling in convoy. Individually the French were charming and, if we offered delicious mille-feuilles purchased from the local pâtisserie to a fellow camper, a smile would appear on the face of even the most dour Frenchman!
Good things: The scenery, the climate and the Moroccan people.
Bad things: Rubbish and stray dogs.
