Our journey south started in the pouring rain. We were travelling from Split to Dubrovnik on a deserted motorway that ran through a mountainous wilderness dotted with the occasional isolated community. There were very few exits from the motorway and virtually no fuel stops, just green covered hills and the occasional tunnel through the high mountains, the summits draped in low cloud.
Some hours later we came to what we thought was a toll booth on the motorway but it turned out to be the border post into Bosnia and Hertzegovena. We were leaving the EU and we had to show our passports before we were waved through. Half an hour later we crossed a second border which took us back into Croatia – where they barely glanced at our passports.
We were now on the coast road and were delighted with the views as we travelled up and down hills, circling bays that overlooked red roofed towns and small fishing harbours. We stopped at one of the many roadside stalls and bought dried figs, home made jams, black honey and figs and some oranges (note how the signs were written in English).
We saw many small islands just off the coast, some of which were accessible by road from the mainland. There were a lot of campsites in the area and we were tempted to stay as it was very beautiful, in spite of the dull weather. We could imagine how fine the view would be if the sun were shining.
